Home Made Turbo Installations
Budget Homemade 2v Turbo Build!! Hi all, I've been through alot with my car in the past two years. It went from being a simple bolt on 2v (255 rwhp), to. How to Make a Homemade Turbo System. How to Make a Homemade Turbo. How to Make a Homemade Turbo for a Car. How to Install a Turbo in a Car.
Hey I have some questions regarding my twin turbo kit that I just built. I am running the HX35 as the top charger and an HT3E as the bottom charger. The top still has the wastegated 12 cm housing and the bottom has the unwastegated 20 cm exhaust housing. I will have to get the specs on the compressor wheel of the HT3E. Seems to spool pretty quick and runs great lots of power, but I make too much boost the turbo is boosting to 70-80 psi somewhere in there. I want to limit it to somewhere in between 55-65 psi.
Can I run an external wastegate of some sort? What did you use? What size should I look for or is there any other way to limit boost by different exhaust housings or anything? Thanks, Justin. Do you know what PR each turbo is running? Odds are, you are spinning the top charger way too much and need to regulate it a bit, Via an external wastegate. Also, a larger housing on the bottom charger will help spool up.
Home Made Turbo Stove
Knowing what each turbo is doing is key to tuning your twins. 55psi, will have them each at around a PR of 2.7 assuming you are at sea level and they are balanced.
1 could also be doing more work than the other. If you can find the maps for your chargers, that will greatly help you in getting them where they are most efficient. I need to clarify what you are saying! The Hx-35 has the stock wastegate and the 3E with 22 cm housing has the 38 mm external wastegate, Correct? Or is it the other way around? If it is the other way around where would you put the 38 mm wastegate on the HX35?
How to install adobe flash player on knoppix. I could see mounting it in the manifold that comes off the back of the HX35 and goes to the 3E to wastegate the 3E? As of now I am running the stock wastegate on the HX35 set at stock level no boost controller or anything. If I get around the HX35 more wont that just help to spool up the 3E more on the top end or will it help it spool the 3E earlier to give more low end power? Will the bigger exhaust housing help keep the top end boost pressure down or what does that help? Please clarify, Thanks, Justin.
(VIDEO added page three) $800 home built twin turbo setup. The car is my '87 Mustang GT.
I picked it up 18 months ago for $1000. It needed a new clutch and a bit of TLC but the odometer showed 127,000 miles which isnt too bad. I was gonna just pull the trans and replace the clutch, but the engine was very grimy so I figured why not pull it too so I can powerwash it and put some new gaskets in it. I got them out and stripped the 302 to the shortblock, then I figured why not put in a new set of rings and bearings, so I stripped it down bare and sent the crank, block and piston/rod assemblies to my machinist. He honed the cylinders, hammered in a new set of cam bearings and cleaned the bare block.
The crank only needed a polish and I had him press in a set of ARP rod bolts. I get all the pieces home, spend the next 6 weeks assembling the shortblock and TFS heads and top it off with a Parker Funnel Web. I spent 20 hours doing a bowl blend with the twisted wedge heads and port matching the funnel web intake with the TFS runners. The cam is a TFS stage 1, it specs out at 221/225 dur @.050' and.499'/.510' lift in/ex with a 1.6 roller rocker.
As far as the motor goes its really nothing special, just a heads/cam upgrade with a carb conversion. The compression ratio is still 9.3:1 and the Holley is an old 650 DP that I converted to run as a blow thru. Now the fun stuff! The Blowthru Setup The headers are home-made, they consist of some SB header flanges that I chopped off the original shortys, all the tubing from the flanges to the 3 1/2' collector is 1 5/8' mandrel bent.
I bought a DIY weld up kit that came with a box of 1 5/8' bends, the funny part is the kit was for a small block Chevy and priced at $89 minus SBC header flanges. I reduced the 3 1/2' collector down to 2 1/2' and ran that to the T-3 flanges.
The turbos are cheap ebay.63/.50 A/R Ford turbo coupe knock-offs, they usually sell for $150-$200 apiece. The twin 38mm wastegates are $60 apiece ebay specials. BOV is a $40 you guessed it (ebay). The charge pipe is another homemade piece consisting or 2 1/2' mandrel bent mild steel tubing, the two pipes meet and merge into a 4' tube that feeds into the 4' carb bonnet.
Nice clutch replacement. I'd get some water injection on there or a tank of race gas before pushing it too hard. Those Chinese knockoff turbos are not as efficient and blow some pretty hot air.
They'll do a fairly good job, but you'll have a tougher time with anti-knock than real Garretts. You may also need to add some restrictors to the oil feed lines so they don't push oil past the shaft rings and into the compressor. You'll know if you need them. David AIS has a meth/water injection kit that I am very interested in and its not too bad at $270. I will be running a 50/50 mix of pump gas and C16 for track use no matter what. The oil feed flange that I used has a.090' restrictor hole so hopefully it keeps me from burning too much oil. The clutch replacement part is pretty funny!
That was all I intended to do and look how far that went, I didnt even replace the clutch! I'd make a terrible mechanic lol. Here are some other guys that do that stuff.
Well, they used to more than they do now. Mike, that guy and his buddies were my original inspiration for building a turbo car. I remember reading everything on that site back in '03 when those guys had just hung up the towel.
Very talented guys and I believe one of them is an engineer somehow tied in with forced induction?? My favorite project of theirs has to be the twin M90 supercharged 351w in the Thunderbird, that thing pulled its tires hard and ran middle 10s.